![wild willy 2 upgrades wild willy 2 upgrades](http://marqspusta.com/wp-content/gallery/wonka/wwonkaprint_0.jpg)
The helmet required a few coats of primer and some time with a soft sanding sponge to get smooth and to remove the seam - this was done while the face was masked off to prevent multiple coats of primer clogging the details. There are several helpful tutorials online that illustrate how best to paint Willy.
![wild willy 2 upgrades wild willy 2 upgrades](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/0n0AAOSwHrtfskGK/s-l225.jpg)
(Over enthusiastic wheelies often results in scuffs to the rear tyre cover.) All the screws for the rollover assembly were painted black. Making disassembly easy should the items need repairing and repainting. Experience has shown that temporarily sandwiching oversized washers between each of the three screws holding the two halves together means that the two items can be painted together to achieve the same colour tone without sticking together. After a few revolutions the sprue marks were removed evenly. It’s helpful to screw the two parts together and sand the join with a soft sanding sponge. These were filled in because the sticker will not be used. Not normally a problem because a large round sticker is included and if used covers them up. The differences between the original Wild Willy and this newer Wild Willy 2 are well documented - one little difference that is sometimes overlooked is that the current version has three ejector pin marks on the outside of the spare wheel cover that are deeper than on the vintage moulding. A sharp pencil was used to run around the edges and a touch with the weathering pad provided some subtle enhancement. The nozzle was brush painted silver before a little black accent was used to highlight the crisp details - just the same that Tamiya originally provided 35 years ago. The fire extinguisher started with a coat of pink primer which helped the red be as bright as possible. Both were screwed in so that they can be rotated with a little persuasion in case the decals didn’t go on level first time and they needed to be rotated to line up. One spotlight cover was painted white and the other black as a nod to the camouflaged model in the 1985 Tamiya catalogue ( ) which is a talking point for those Tamiya fans with good eyesight. These were clipped off with a generous amount of plastic sprue prior to further cutting and sanding back. Having restored a number of secondhand vintage models it’s obvious that the top spot lights are tantalisingly easy to be twisted off their sprue, however, this leaves an untidy break.
![wild willy 2 upgrades wild willy 2 upgrades](https://i.pinimg.com/236x/65/06/a2/6506a24059146d9fcee26063bf3d8da5--rc-cars-japan.jpg)
So the corners were cut in a rounded fashion. The trick with square decals is to make sure there are no sharp edges or right angels, otherwise, the corners can lift over time.
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Again the little details received some black accent. However, any day using TS89 Pearl Blue is a happy day - a lovely shade that really shines especially when backed with a silver base. My nitrous oxide bottle had a poor seam running down the side and required a bit of sanding to correct. The gator was painted AS15 Tan, to simulate what is most likely rubber or canvas on the prototype and also received a little accent with a pencil and weathering kit. Tamiya do a few different shades of black - their TS82 Rubber Black seemed to do the job nicely for the rim.įollowing through with the racing theme I thought it fun to give the gear lever knobs a couple of different bright colours TS8 Italian Red and TS47 Chrome Yellow. The whole wheel was spray painted silver first before applying the masking tape. The steering wheel and column needed little preparation and were crisply moulded.